Earlier this summer I sat down to one of the most exclusive tables in town. No, not Alinea. Not Ever. Nor was it The Crib, (RIP). It was an eight-course blowout at Hermosa, Ethan Lim’s tiny sandwich shop by day, six-seat “Family Meal” prix fixe by night. Lim’s ongoing nocturnal pop-up—during which he buries his […]
Tag: Ethan Lim
Posted inFood & Drink
Are you ready for some Monday Night Foodball?
In January 2020 I assumed I had a lock on the annual Kedzie Inn chili cookoff, with a three-day smoked brisket braised with Cremeria La Ordena mole picoson. I spent a lot of time peering into the Dutch oven, building it, finessing it—no, caressing it—making sure the judges would drown in its smoldering, head-spinning complexity. So I […]
Posted inFood & Drink
Mona Bella caters Cambodian
A Lettuce cook and her mom deliver a new Khmer menu each week.
Posted inFood & Drink
The year in pivots
Chicago restaurants ate shit this year. A lot of shit was still pretty great.
Posted inFood & Drink
Ethan Lim’s seven-course Cambodian ode to mom and dad is live
Family Meal @hermosachicago is the chef’s next step toward a culinary Khmerica.
Posted inFood & Drink
Ethan Lim leans in to Cambodian food
Hermosa’s chef makes space on his sandwich menu for the city’s only Khmer food.
Posted inFood & Drink
Cambodia on a bun
Hermosa’s Ethan Lim looks around the globe and asks, “Will it sandwich?”
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There’s Khmer food right under your nose at Googoo’s Table
This Chinese restaurant in Hermosa hides a few Cambodian dishes on its broad menu.