Earlier this summer I sat down to one of the most exclusive tables in town. No, not Alinea. Not Ever. Nor was it The Crib, (RIP). It was an eight-course blowout at Hermosa, Ethan Lim’s tiny sandwich shop by day, six-seat “Family Meal” prix fixe by night. Lim’s ongoing nocturnal pop-up—during which he buries his […]
In January 2020 I assumed I had a lock on the annual Kedzie Inn chili cookoff, with a three-day smoked brisket braised with Cremeria La Ordena mole picoson. I spent a lot of time peering into the Dutch oven, building it, finessing it—no, caressing it—making sure the judges would drown in its smoldering, head-spinning complexity. So I […]
A Lettuce cook and her mom deliver a new Khmer menu each week.
Chicago restaurants ate shit this year. A lot of shit was still pretty great.
Family Meal @hermosachicago is the chef’s next step toward a culinary Khmerica.
Hermosa’s chef makes space on his sandwich menu for the city’s only Khmer food.
Hermosa’s Ethan Lim looks around the globe and asks, “Will it sandwich?”
This Chinese restaurant in Hermosa hides a few Cambodian dishes on its broad menu.